(First things first! Take a look at that top pic… no razor wire at THIS house, those are share of broken glass lining the top of the wall! YIKES) Anywhoodles… It’s moving day and time to head over to the mainland on Baja Ferry’s Baja Star. It’s two dollars to take the shuttle bus to the ferry port in Pinchilingue, 18km from the historic city center of Malacon were we’ve been staying.
A few key points about this bus:
Departure time of 12:05 pm REALLY means 11:50am.
When you’re told to remove your front wheels in preparation for boarding DO IT, do it right then and do it quickly, PRONTO! Even if you think you’re 30 minutes from boarding.
OTHERWISE, you’ll watch as an overheated and under-patienced (pretty sure that’s not a word) bus terminal employee shoves, crams and squeezes your 10lb. bike into a 5lb. spot. Using every means but a crow bar. Then works Patty’s in on top of THAT.
The aforementioned employee WILL be extremely appreciative when you hand over a 50 peso tip for the “help” loading.
The ferry terminal is just one stop in the shuttle route and you’ll find yourself rushing to untangle your bikes, bags and self from the bus while everyone looks on wondering exactly how long you’ll take!
During the bus ride to Pinchilingue, you’ll pass through the vacation resort end of town. This really chapped my rear end for some reason. The biggest resort we saw was an American hotel/resort chain and granted it did look amazing and quite a vacation destination. But it also like NOTHING like the Mexico we had seen up until now.
The small villages we had passed through were models of efficiency and masters of the resources at hand. For example, no water is wasted. Anything that drains from a sink, tub or shower is routed out of doors and into an irrigation system that waters fruit trees, gardens and other flora. Most small towns only have running water service until 9pm after that the water is shut off as the pumps must be continually manned and Senor wants to go home to his wife. Heck, even in the “big city” of La Paz I’ve seen residents empty the little bit of water in the bottom of a water bottle into a nearby planter or tree before throwing it away.
The resort was embarrassing in it’s display of lush green lawns and golf greens. No. Actually, embarrassing isn’t the right word. It was more of an assault on the senses. Gone are the native shrubs, towering cacti and the flowering bushes that are so few and far between that they offer a real treat when you do see them. In the surrounding hills, the entire landscape sings with muted and dusty shades of green, gold and copper against the cocoa colored mountains. I’m not trying to sound like a bad poet, but there’s no other way I can think to describe it, it is quite beautiful in it’s austerity.
Now, I’m not saying the Hyatt doesn’t use native plants, I’m no expert and I’m sure they do. However, the spending tourist that arrives at this location with luggage and money in hand to visit Mexico is missing out on what Mexico ACTUALLY looks like. Just my two cents…
:: Stepping down offa the soap box::
The ferry to Mazatlan from La Paz is a 15 hour overnight journey, you can either pay extra for a cabin or opt out and you’ll be seated in an area that looks quite comfortable with reclining chairs and TVs that show some American movies with Spanish voice overs. Bicycles were extra but a cafeteria dinner is included.
Hey there! February 2014 after a bit of soul searching but more of a desire to live my life differently, I made the decision to sell my house, sell all the crap that is filling up my life and hit the road for the life of a vagabond. These are my pictures, my stories and my journey...
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